Process for producing fabric and the fabric



Feb. 7, 1939. E. R'BORHO PROCESS FOR PRODUCINGFABRIC AND THE FABRIC Original Filed Nov. 21, 1933 INVENTdR ERNEST R BORHO NEYS Patented Feb. 7, 1939 t v UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE PROCESS FOR PRODUCING FABRIC AND THE FABRIC Ernest R. Borho, North Bergen, N. 'J.

Application November 21, 1933, Serial No. 699,035

Renewed October 26, 1937 21 Claims. (01. 28-1) The invention relates to a method or process lustrating one embodiment of the invention in of producing a fabric at least part of which is which: rendered destructible to produce a fabric hav- Figure 1 is a plan view of the fabric with the ingpatern efiects therein or to produce a fabric yarns shown partially diagrammatically in order 5 which is entirely destructible. The fabric which to better illustrate the pattern effect produced 5 is entirely'destructible is adapted to be used as by the process. a support or a background fabric in the manu- Figure 2, is an enlarged plan view of a part facture of embroidery. Partially destructible of the fabric showing how the yarn, forming the fabric is suitable for producing a fabric having net or background portion of the fabric, retains l0 pattern effects therein or for supporting fabric the shorter lengths of yarn which form the patin the manufacture of embroidery. tern.

The pattern effects produced in a finished pat- Figure 3 is an enlarged cross-section through temed fabric are similar to those which are manthe back ou d or netwo o e fa r c as t n ufactured upon looms in which the yarn of the n e 33 of u e l5 fabric in certain parts willbe closely woven, or igure 4 is an e d oss-sec through relatively closely woven, and other parts will have the f c W ere a pattern app in the fabric the effect of being loosely woven such as a net as taken on line 4-4 of Figure 2. or open work. In producing afabric having pat- Pattern effects up fabric having yarns of v tern effects, portions of the yarn of the fabric are Vegetable fi of Vegetable Origin e been rendered friable or destructible by the process produced heretofore by various processes. One 20 or method to be described, which friable porsuch process nitrat s v a l y a r whi h tions are removedfromthe fabric and leave the e fabric 010th Produced from e y 1S remainder of the yarns inta t, printed with a paste containing caustic soda.

The process of the invention will also produce This'precess, ver, is subject to several disa fabric, all or part of which will be rendered adventages- 25 friable or destructible for use in the manufacture An her process impregnates ve a l y rn of embroideries. Such fabric is used as a backwith a Solution of aluminum Chloride eground and supporting fabric nd th embroidslum chloride. The treated yarn is woven into ery is-manufactured thereupon, after which the 010th Which is Subsequently printed With a a fabrlc is subjected to treatment which renders it kah, Such as Sodium carbonate. in that Po on 30 entirely or partially friable or destructible. 0f the fabric Where the yarn is to be retained- Thereafter the friable fabric is removed by brush- This treated cloth is then heated which disinteing, crushing, beating, or ther uit m manner, grates the yarns or rendersthem friable or dewhich leaves the finished embroidery entirely free structible in these parts not treated W t the of and separated from the background fabric or Soda, and the d s egrated portions are removed 35 the embroidery is carried on the supporting fabric by brushing, beating. which has pattern effects or is net like. i The above process p oduces an e a ed It is an object of the invention to devise a yarn a d cloth w ot be stored for any new and novel method of producing a fabric of length oftime without a lossof yarn, unless great 40 yarns, at least some or all of which are vegetable c is taken- The yarns and cloths so treated 40 or f vegetable rigi and at least a portion or must also be kept cool and protected from moisall of 'which vegetable yarns is rendered friable ture destructible. Another method utilizes a paste having a free Another object is to devise a new and novel acld therein which is prmted upon the fabric method of producing pattern effects upon fabric in those places where the fabric is to be disin- 45 tegrated or rendered friable. The paste is perhaving vegetable yarns therein by sub ecting the fabric to a treatment which renders some of the gi i zg g upon 3 3 i yarn or parts of all of the yarn friable or de- Sm egm e same a er w c e pas e s um i h washed therefrom. This method has the disas s redr'w ereupon the friable advantage of the acid attacking the equipment 50 tions are removed leaving the remaining yarn of for producing the pattern effects. the fabric to form the pattern effects desired. The process for producing fabric t be Other objects of the invention will be more apscribed herein is adapted t b perfomed upon parent from the following description taken in vegetable fibers or fibers having a vegetable oriconnection with the accompanying drawing ilgin. The fabric need not necessarily-be en- 55 the preferred fabric, it is contemplated to weave or manufacture the fabric entirely of vegetable fibers because of the greater desirability of this fiber and yarn in most cases. Cotton is the cheapest of the vegetable fibers and consequently yarns of cotton or cotton origin will probably be most frequently used in practicing the process. Any yarn, however, of vegetable fiber or vegetable origin is suitable for practicing the process and for the purposes of this invention the term vegetable yarn includes all such yarns.

The vegetable yarns which are to be treated are first thoroughly scoured in the recognized manner for the particular .yarns used. This is merely a conditioning treatment which all yarns receive before further processing and does not constitute one of the steps in the process of the invention. The first operation in the inventive process comprises the treating of the vegetable yarns I 0 with a compound containing one or more diazotizable amino groups which are absorbed into the fibers of the yarn and retained therein. It is important that the diazotizable amino group compound be absorbed and retained in the fiber initially and after diazotization and one of the factors determining the relative practicability of one diazotizable amino group compound over another in performing my process is the quantity of compound absorbed and retained by the fiber. Other factors being the same, the relative substantivity or ability of the fiber to absorb and retain more of one diazotizable amino group compound than another makes the one which is more substantive more satisfactory.

The vegetable fibers are treated with thediazon. tizable amino group compound either as an aggregate of fiber or as yarn before it is manufactured into a cloth or fabric, or the yarns or fiber may be treated after the yarns have been woven into the fabric, although for producing pattern efiects the treatment of the fiber before spinning into yarn or before weaving the yarn into fabric is preferable as will appear more fully hereinafter. Pattern effects may be produced by treat ing portions of yarns with the diazotizable amino group compound and weaving these yarns l0 into fabric and then disintegrating the treated portions. Obviously, such yarns may also be woven into fabricwith yarns H which are untreated, or

' with yarns which have been entirely treated,

or with both of these forms of yarn.

A fabric having more intricate pattern effects may be produced by taking one of the fabrics, above described, or a. fabric in which all parts of all the yarns are treated with a diazotizable amino group compound and'applying thereto a compound or chemical which reduces or oxidizes amino group compound from the fabric in those portions where it has been applied for the purpose of retaining the yarns. Of these reducing and oxidizing agents, sodium hydrosulphite is preferred in my process. I

The preferred manner of applying this reducing or oxidizing agent tothe fabric is by printing 2,145,858 tirely of yarns from vegetable fibers although, in

a paste thereof in a desired pattern on the fabric in those places where the treatedyarns III are to be retained. The primary purpose of this step is to have the diazotizable amino group compound absorbed in the treated yarns in the fabric only where desired in a predetermined pattern. The fabric is now dried, steamed and washed to remove the paste containing the oxidizing or reducing agent and to remove any residual substances from the fabric. It will be noted that the purpose of the removing or" discharging step in the process is to remove the diazotizable amino group compound or so change the character thereof that is is rendered ineffective.

The diazotizable amino group compound in the fabric is diazotized. The preferred manner of diazotizing the compound is to subject the fabric to a cold diazotizing bathof any soluble nitrite, such as sodium nitrite or potassium nitrite, anda mineral acid, such, as sulphuric acid, hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid or nitric acid.

The sulphuric and hydrochloricacids are preferred since these acids have been found more effective than the other acids. It is essential that the diazotization of the amino group compound will produce a diazonium salt which is retained in the fiber of the fabric. The fabric after being treated to the diazotizing step, is thoroughly washed with cold water to remove all acid and nitrite.

Some of the yarns of the fabric resulting from the steps of the process so far described contain a diazonium salt in a desired pattern and the remainder of the yarns of the fabric do not contain the diazonium salt. The diazonium salt is unstable and will decompose at normal temperatures and under normal atmospheric conditions In order to increase the speed with which the disintegrating agent is liberated, the fabric is heated to a temperature and for a period of time which will not be injurious to the retained yarns.' The diazonium salt when so heated rapidly liberates the active agent which disintegrates or renders the yarn friable in those places containing the diazonium salt, which are those places where the diazotizable amino group compound has been impregnated into the yarn or has been permitted to remain in the yarn of the fabric. The temperature, to which the fabric may be subjected, is governed by other conditions such as the length of time to which the fabric is subjected thereto, and the dehydration within the yarns which must necessarily take place under the temperature applied- The heating of the fabric must avoid carrying the dehydration to the point where the yarns retained are injured. The fabric may be subjected to very high temperatures for a short period, provided the yarns which are to be retained in the fabric are not scorched or otherwise injured by the heat.

The friable or disintegrable yarn produced in the fabric is reduced to a powder or minute broken pieces bypounding or crushing, brushing, or by any other suitable method. This leaves a fabric with pattern effects in which the yarns l0 and Ii of the fabric in certain portions thereof are closely or relatively closely woven and in other portions some or all of the yarns have been removed producing a net or open-work eflect. If the fabric is one having a pile and the process has been applied to .the yarns of the pile, a pattern effect in the pile would be produced. Similarly, the process is applicable to the yarns in the ground of a pile fabric which would also pro-..

- supporting fabric may be partially retained as a supporting net or open-work fabric for the embroidery or may have any desired pattern therein. In producing fabric for the embroidery manufacturing trade, the same steps are performed as outlined above, excepting in a fabric all of which is to be destroyed in which case the step of removing the diazotizable amino group compound is dispensed with. v

For a fabric which is to be entirely destroyed; all of the yarns are impregnated with the diazotizable amino group compound, either as yarns which are then woven into the fabric, or the yarns may be treated after being woven into a fabric. In removing the diazotizable amino .group compound from certain portions of the fabric, this step is taken in order to produce desired pattern or open-work effects in the fabric. ,,Obviously, where no pattern effects are-desired and all that is wanted is the entire destruction of the fabric, this step'should not be performed. Again, such a fabric must have all of the yarns woven into the fabric treated in the manner described so that the entire fabric becomes friable or desctructible upon heating.

The fabric produced by the invention is much superior to any now being used by the embroidery manufacturing trade. The fabrics now used cannot be stored since the disintegration or conversion of thevegetable yarn into a friable condition proceeds immediately in spite of all precautions taken to protect the same against activity. Furthermore, one of the fabrics now used is highly inflammable. The fabric produced by the method disclosed herein may be stored indefinitely until ready for use without deterioration and the fabric may be rendered friable after the embroidery has been manufactured thereupon 'merely by diazotizing the fabric and subjecting it'to heat, as described above. The fabric produced by the process described herein is also the'method described is that it has definite color.

The maiority'of embroideries are manufactured with a light colored yarn. The background or supporting fabric heretofore used in the embroidery manufacturing industry is inherently a light colored fabric and consequently the light colored embroidery yarn does not show up effectively. l or this reason these fabrics have been dyed. as a separate and additional step in the manufacture of the fabric. The compound which is most effective for the process described herein produces a fabric which is initially black without requiring a separate dyeing step. Other diazotizable amino group compounds which can successfully be used produce a distinct or deep color in the fabric without an additional dyeing step. These distinct colors of the fabric provide a sharply contrasting background for the light colored yarns of the embroidery so that the embroidery pattern is readily discernible upon the background fabric.

The diazotizable amino group compounds which are suitable for the process described herein must be substantive or absorbed and retained in sufficient quantities in the fibers of the yarn. Those diazotizable amino group compounds which are most successful have been found to be those having a maximum number of diazotizable amino groups therein and which have also maximum substantivity. It has been found, for instance, that some of the diazotizable amino group compounds having two diazotizable amino groups are not as effective for the process as some compounds having only one diazotizable amino group. It is believed that one of the reasons why the compound containing the single diazotizable amino group is-more effective than the compound containing the two diazotizable amino groups is because of the relative substantivity of the two compounds, the former being probabaly absorbed and retained in the fibers of the yarn in much larger quantity than the latter. In other words, a compound having two diazotizable amino groups therein is not absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn in a quantity sufficient to provide the same number of diazotizable amino group units therein as the units absorbed and retained in the fiber in a compound containing a single diazotizable amino group yet being relatively more substantive. Again the diazotization of the substantive diamt'izable amino group compound has for its purpose the production and retention of a diazonium salt in the fibers of the yarns in suflicient quantity to provide an adequate amount of active distintegrating agent within the fiber.

In the preferred method described herein of producing a fabric having pattern effects, wherein the diazotizable amino group compound is re-- duced or oxidized from desired portions of the fabric, it is essential that a diazotizable amino group compound be used which is removable or been particularly effective for embroidery supporting fabrics and for producing pattern effects by the preferred method are:

Sodium salt of 4 amino-benzene-azo- -creasol-- I methyl ether-azo- 7 amino-1 napthol-3 sulphonic acid.

Sodium salt of diphenyl-disazo-3-suipho-7 amino- 1 naphthol-3:6 disulphonic acid.

Sodium salt of p aminobenzene-azo-a naphthalehe-azo-l amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic acid. Sodium salt of m-aminobenzoyl-G amino-3 sulpho-I naphthol-2 azo-benzene.

The first mentioned has so far been found most effective.

Various modifications will occur to those skilledthat the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining yarns are uninjured,

5 and removing the friable portions of the fabric.

A process for producing a fabric at least some of which is of vegetable yarns and at least some of which vegetable yarns have a diazotizable amino group compound absorbed and retainable 20 therein comprising diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, then heating the fabric to dry the yarn and so-that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable more quickly and the remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable portions of the fabric.

3. A process forproducing a fabric at least some of which is of' vegetable yarns and at least some of which vegetable yarns have a diazotizable amino group compound absorbed therein comprising, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, drying, the fabric, then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable quickly and the remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable portions of the fabric.

of which is a vegetable yarn comprising, treating yarn which is to be removed with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is ab- 40 sorbed and retained in the fiber .of the yarn, di-

. azotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, then drying the fabric so that the yams or parts thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable yarns of the fabric,

5. A process for producing fabric at least some of which is a vegetable yarn comprising, treating yarn with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in 50 the flber of the yarn, removing the diazotizable which is to be retained, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group'pompound, then heating the fabric so that the yarns or parts thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the'remaining yarns areuninjured, and removing the friable yarns of the fabric. 6. A process for producing patterned fabric at least some of which is a vegetable'yam com-- w prising, treating yarn with a compoundhaving a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and. retained in the fiber of the yarn, applying a compound upon so much of the yarns of'the fabric which are to be retained which removes or ren--' 5. ders ineffective the diazotizable amino group compound, washing the fabric, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining- 1 yards are uninjured, and "removing'the friable yarns ofthefabrlc.

. 7. A process for producing fabric comprising,

treating a vegetable yarn prior to weaving with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the'fiber of the 4. A process for producing fabric at least some amino group compound from so much of the yarn yarn, weaving the yarn into a fabric, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, washing the fabric to remove all acid and nitrite, heating the fabric, and removing the friable yarns.

8. A process for producing fabric comprising, weaving a fabric of yarns at least some of which are vegetable, treating the fabric with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group 1 compound in the yarn, and drying the fabric.

9. A process for producing fabric comprising, treating a vegetable yarn prior to weaving with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of- 5 the yarn; weaving the treated yarn into a fabric with other untreated threads, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, then drying the fabric so that the portions of the yarns there- I of to be removed are rendered friable and the 50 remaining yarns and portions thereof are uninjured, and removing thefriable portions of. the yarns of the fabric.

10. A process for producing fabric comprising, treating a vegetable yarn prior to weaving g;

with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn, weaving the yarn into a fabric with other untreated threads, removing the diazotizable amino group compound where desired, 30 diazotizing the remaining diazotizable amino group compound, then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining yarns are uninjured,

' and removing the friable portions of the fabric. 35

11. A process for producing a fabric at least some of which is of'vegetable yarns and at least some of which vegetable yarns have a diazotizable amino group compound absorbed and retainable therein comprising, diazotizing the di- .4

azotizable amino group compound, than drying the fabric at normal temperatures so that the fabric is dry for storage and the disintegrating agent is unliberated.

12. A process for producing patterned fabric at least some of'which is a vegetable yarn comprising treating yarn with a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn, weaving the treated yam into a fabric with other yarns, ap- 56 plying hydrosulphite upon so much of the yarns of the fabric which are to be retained which removes or renders ineffective the diazotizable amino group compound, washing the fabric, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, 5 then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the re-' maining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable yarns of thei'abric.

13. A process for producing patterned fabric at least some of which is a vegetable yarn comprising treating yarn with at least one of the compounds of sodium salt of 4 amino-benzene-azo creasol-methyl ether-azo-i amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic acid," sodium salt of diphen'yl-disa'zo-3 g5 sulpho-l amino-1 naphthol-3:6 disulphonic acid, sodium salt of paminobenzene-azo-anaphthaleneazo-7amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic acid, sodium salt of m-aminobenzoyl-d' amino-3 sulpho-i Tnaphthol-Z azo-benzene which is absorbed and retained in the fiber" of the yarn, weaving the treated yarn into a fabric with other yarns, applying hydro-sulphite upon so much of the yams-of the fabric which are to be retained which removes or renders ineffective the diazotizable amino 7 a,14s,sse

group compound, washing the fabric, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound, then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable yarns of the fabric.

14. A process for producing patterned fabric at least some of whichis' a vegetable yarn comprising treating yarn with at least one of the compounds of sodium salt of 4 amino-benzene-azocreasol-methyl ether-azo-l amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic acid, sodium salt of dipheny1-disazo-3 sulpho-l amino-1 naphthol-3:6 disulphoni'c acid,

sodium salt of aminobenzene-azo-anaphthaleneazo-7 amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic acid, sodium salt of m-amlnobenzoyl-6 amino-3 sulpho-i naphthol-2 azo-benzene which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn, weaving the treated yarn into a fabric with other warn, applying a compound upon so much of the yarns of the fab-'- ric which are to be retained which removes or renders ineffective the diazotizable amino group compound, washing the fabric, diazotizing the diazotizable'amlno group compound, then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and the remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable yarns of the fabric. i

15. In a process for producing patterned fabric at least some of which is a vegetable yarn including the use of one of the diazotizable amino group compounds of sodium salt of 4 amino-benzeneazo-pcreasol methyl ether-azo-7 amino-1 naphthol-3 sulphonic' acid, sodium salt of diphenyldisazo-3 sulpho-l amino-1 naphthol-3:6 disulphonic acid-sodium salt of aminobenzene-azoanaphthalene-azo-7 amino-1 naphthol-S sulphonic acid, sodium salt of m-aminobenzoyl-6 I amino-3 sulpho-l naphthol-z azo-benzene, and

including the use of a compound'upon so much of the yarns of the fabric which are to be retained which removes or renders ineffective the diazotizable amino group compound 16. In a process for producing patterned fabric at least some of which is a vegetable yarn including. the use of a compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed andretained in the fiber of some of the yarn of the fabric, and

- including the use of a compound upon so much of tizabl'e amino group compound.

- tern, and the shorter threads being initially longthreads dyed with a dye having a diazotizable the yarns of the fabric which are to be retained which removes or renders ineffective the diazo- 17. A ,fabric having a; pattern eifect. in which twisted threads extend entirely across the fabric, other shorter threads retained therebetween by the twistedthreads and forming a desired patum salt is also retained therein comprising diazotizing the diazotizable amino .group compound within and upon the fibers of the yarns thereby forming the diazonium salt, then drying the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable and any remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable portions of the fabric.

19. A process for destroying all or a portion of a fabric at least some of which is of vegetable yarns and at least some of which vegetable yarns have a diazotizable amino group compound which is absorbed and retained therein and its diazonium salt is also retained therein comprising, diazotizing the diazotizable amino group compound within and upon the fibers of the yarns thereby forming the diazonium salt, then heating the fabric to dry the yarn and so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable more quickly 'and any remaining yarns are uninjured, and'removing the friable portions of the fabric.

' 20. A process for destroying all or a portion of a fabric at least some of which is of vegetable yarnsv and at least some of which vegetable yarns have a diazotizable amino group compound which is absorbed and retained therein anditsdiazonium salt is also retained therein comprising, di-

azotizing the diazotizable amino group compound within and upon the fibers of the yarns thereby forming the diazonium' salt, drying the fabric,

then heating the fabric so that the yarns thereof to be removed are rendered friable quickly and any remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable portions'of the fabric.

21. A process for destroying all or a portion of a fabric at least-some of which is a vegetable yarn comprising, treating yarn which is to be removed with av compound having a diazotizable amino group which is absorbed and retained in the fiber of the yarn and its diazonium salt is also retained therein, diazotizing the diamtizable amino group compound within and upon the fibers of the yarn thereby forming the diazonium salt, then drying the fabric so that the yarns or parts thereof to be removed are rendered friable and any remaining yarns are uninjured, and removing the friable yarns of the fabric. v 1

, ERNEST R. BOB-HO. 

